Destinations

This week, I am delighted to take you on the Via Podiensis from Le Puy to Conques on the Camino de Santiago! This blog post will allow you to discover the stages of the Le Puy to Conques route, but also to prepare your own journey if you want to embark on the adventure yourself!

The Le Puy to Conques section is widely regarded as the most beautiful part of the Le Puy way, and I must say that it has some wonderful surprises in store. From Velay to Rouergue, via Margeride, Aubrac, and the Pays d’Olt, the landscapes change every day and evolve as you pass through villages and hamlets.

Finally, the Camino is a special trail, where you don’t come by chance… That’s what I’ll tell you about in this article…

LE PUY TO CONQUES: PRACTICAL TIPS TO PREPARE YOUR HIKE

To help you prepare for your journey from Le Puy to Conques, here are some frequently asked questions that I have been asked, as well as those I asked myself before setting off! I hope you find them useful.

NB: I am only referring to the Camino de Santiago from Le Puy to Conques here; I do not have any information about the rest of the route!

• How much time do you need to nike from Le Puy to Conques? 

It takes between 7 and 12 days to walk from Le Puy to Conques on the Way of St. James. The “official” stages, averaging 22 km per day, take 10 days to complete.

I personally combined two short stages (Espalion – Estaing and Estaing – Golinhac, 26 km in total) to complete the route in 9 days, with an average of 25 km per day.

Please note: to complete the route in 7 days, you need to walk more than 30 km per day, which, in my opinion, leaves less time to enjoy the pleasure of slowing down and contemplating your surroundings…

• The 10 stages from Le Puy to Conques on the Camino

  – Total length of the Camino de Santiago: 1,520 km (including 750 km in France) – Distance between Le Puy and Conques: 205 km

Stages of the GR65 from Le Puy-en-Velay to Conques (official version)

1 Le Puy-en-Velay > Saint-Privat-d’Allier 23.60 km

2 Saint-Privat-d’Allier > Saugues 19.80 km

3 Saugues > Le Sauvage* 19.40 km

4 Le Sauvage* > Peyre en Aubrac 28.20 km

5 Peyre en Aubrac > Nasbinals 26.30 km

6 Nasbinals > Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac 16.70 km

7 Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac > Espalion 24.60 km

8 Espalion > Estaing 12.50 km**

9 Estaing > Golinhac 14.00 km

10 Golinhac > Conques 21.10 km

* I chose to extend the stage after Le Sauvage by staying in Lajo, just off the route (a total detour of 3 km), so that I would have less road to cover the next day.

** As mentioned above, I combined stages 8 and 9.  

What is the most beautiful stage of the Camino de Santiago between Le Puy and Conques? Without hesitation, it is the fifth stage between Peyre and Nasbinals, which crosses the Aubrac!

• Best time to hike Le Puy to Conques Camino 

• Le Puy to Conques : difficulty of the hike 

What level of physical fitness is required for the Camino de Santiago?

There are all kinds of walkers on the Camino de Santiago. From beginners to experienced hikers, from young people to seniors… Compostela is a route accessible to everyone, provided you prepare for it if you are not particularly athletic. Getting used to carrying a backpack, walking for long periods in the heat, and walking for several days in a row seems important to me if you are not used to it at all.

Please note that it is possible to have your backpack carried from stage to stage by the postal service “La malle postale” in case of difficulty (to be booked in advance). They will pick up and drop off your bags directly at your reserved accommodations.

If you are already athletic, you will have no problem completing the trail without any prior preparation. Provided you take care of your feet (see “equipment”) and get a good night’s sleep (with the added bonus of stretching in the evening if necessary), which applies to everyone.

There is a reasonable elevation gain of around 500-600m per day.

• Where to stay at night from Le Puy to Conques? 

Each stage ends in small villages, and most of the accommodation you will find is in pilgrim hostels. They all offer half board. Rates generally vary between €40 and €50 for a bed in a shared room (usually 4 to 8 people), with dinner and breakfast included. The hostels sometimes offer single rooms.

My favorite places to stay along the way:

Gîte Le Vieux Lavoir in Saugues: Sylvie and Franck welcome you to their farm for authentic and fascinating conversations! It’s outside the village of Saugues, but Sylvie and Franck will pick you up in the village.

Les Bouleaux Nains guesthouse in Lajo: a pilgrim guesthouse welcome just the way we like it, by Rachel, who has been welcoming pilgrims with the same passion for over 15 years!

Le Vieux Palais aparthotel in Espalion: spacious rooms in a beautiful historic building—it’s not every day you get to stay in a 16th-century palace…

• Alice & Charles guest rooms in Conques: opposite Conques Abbey, the perfect place to end your journey in style!

There are also a few hotels (not many) and religious accommodations (Grand Séminaire in Le Puy, Couvent de Malet in Saint Côme d’Olt, Accueil de l’Abbaye in Conques, etc.).

Should you book your accommodation in advance?

The answer was unanimous: yes in May and early June, yes in September, not necessarily at the end of June and in summer (see box “Which season is best for walking the Camino de Santiago?”). Personally, I preferred to book in advance for peace of mind. Many people book in the morning for the evening depending on how they feel that day, and this works very well during less busy periods.

• Where to eat from Le Puy to Conques?

The first few stages are very convenient because there are several places to eat “for pilgrims” located right next to the trail. I was quite surprised by the prices, which were very reasonable. You will also often find farm shops selling produce, or grocery stores and bakeries in the villages.

There are slightly fewer options along the route from Aubrac, but you can always find something for lunch. So there’s no need to carry a picnic with you all day. Just bring some almonds, raisins, or other snacks in case you get hungry.

If you’re looking for more information, don’t hesitate to consult the famous Miam-Miam-Dodo guide.

• How much does it cost to walk the Camino de Santiago from Le Puy to Conques?

You should budget €40 to €50 per day for half-board accommodation in lodges along the route, or more if you prefer hotels—but there are very few of them. On top of that, you’ll need to add lunch, which often costs between €5 and €10 depending on where you eat, not including drinks and snacks during the day.

• Walking the Camino from Le Puy to Conques as a solo woman

Is it easy to walk from Le Puy to Conques alone? The answer is a resounding YES. While I believe that all hikes are doable, the Camino de Santiago is truly the perfect route for a first-time hiker!

The route is very well marked, without any major difficulties, there are other hikers around almost all the time, and the pilgrims are friendly and supportive… If you’re apprehensive about walking alone, this is the route for you!

In fact, I met several women traveling alone who were doing their first long-distance hike!

•   What is the credencial and where can I get one?

The credencial is a symbolic document that serves as a “passport” for pilgrims. Symbolic in France, it is essential in Spain for accessing accommodation. You can have it stamped at all the places you visit along the way (churches, accommodation, restaurants, bars, grocery stores, etc.).

There is an official credential that can be purchased online or in Le Puy (at the cathedral shop or at the “Camino” behind the cathedral, where the Association des amis de Saint-Jacques du Velay is open every day from 2:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.). For my part, I chose to have the stamps affixed to my travel journal!

LE PUY TO CONQUES – DAY 0 : Le Puy-en-Velay

Discovering Le Puy-en-Velay was a wonderful surprise for me! This a very nice first step from Le Puy to Conques !

Known for its verbena, lace, and lentils, Le Puy also offers a beautiful heritage. The historic center is made up of charming medieval streets, which sometimes give the impression of stepping back in time when you venture onto its cobblestones. The facades are colorful: some are clad in black Velay stone, others are painted, and all feature pretty little architectural details for those who look up to admire them!

The highlight of the walk in Le Puy is around its cathedral, which proudly dominates the town. You have to hold on tight to climb up there, as the slope is so steep, but the reward at the top is great, as it looks magnificent with its striped façade!

Don’t hesitate to push open the door to admire the interior, as this is where the Way of Le Puy begins, leading to Santiago de Compostela.

You can also visit the cathedral’s cloister and admire the view from the statue of Notre-Dame de France (admission fees apply).

Every morning at 7 a.m. (from April 1 to October 31, 7:30 a.m. in winter), Le Puy Cathedral welcomes pilgrims setting off for Santiago de Compostela. Whether you are a believer or not, whatever your religion, I can only advise you to attend this mass to mark the start of your journey.

The opening of the staircase and doors of the cathedral, surprisingly carved into the floor in the middle of the cathedral, is a moment that is as surprising as it is moving, and remains one of the most beautiful for me on the journey.

The mass also gives you the opportunity to meet the pilgrims who will accompany you on the journey… Many nationalities are represented: Canada, Australia… pilgrims come from all over the world to walk this path. Finally, you can also get the first stamp for your credential!

And so, as you descend the stairs leading from the depths of the cathedral, you will begin your journey. You now have 205 kilometers to go to reach Conques!

After a slightly steep climb leaving Le Puy, the road winds gently through the Auvergne countryside. This is the very beginning of the Le Puy to Conques trail, where you can start to find your bearings thanks to the red and white markings of the GR 65.

Don’t miss the pretty chapels and villages with their red and black stones that dot the trail. There’s no doubt about it, you’re definitely in the Velay region!

After an initial descent, the village of Saint-Privat-d’Allier finally comes into view: the first stage from Le Puy to Conques is complete!

But if you still have energy left, I recommend exploring the small village dressed all in black, with its slender castle perched on a hilltop.

LE PUY TO CONQUES – DAY 2 : Saint-Privat-d’Allier – Saugues

The second day of the Le Puy to Conques route takes us through the Allier Gorges. This is the most challenging stage, as it begins with a steep descent that can be a little slippery, followed by a long but steady climb from Monistrol d’Allier.

Early in the morning, the route offers a lovely stop at the St Jacques de Rochegude chapel, perched on its rock. All around, the view of the Allier Gorges is breathtaking!

Another chapel a little further on is also worth a visit: the Chapel of St. Madeleine, which is built into a cave! We are beginning to understand that the hamlets along the way sometimes hold pleasant surprises…

After the long-awaited (or dreaded!) climb, a lovely green descent gives you back some strength as you head towards Saugues. This is the first village that is a little larger than the others, where you can do some shopping if you need anything.

And this is also where the territory of the Beast of Gévaudan begins…

LE PUY TO CONQUES – DAY 3 : Saugues – Le Sauvage – Lajo

At the start of the third day, the landscape changes again. We are now on the Margeride plateau in Gévaudan: the alternating meadows and pine forests are surprising at first glance. Everything is already wilder!

Here and there, the meadows are dotted with granite boulders… And at the end of June, the scent of broom already begins to fill the air, while the number of cows increases. We then encounter the first “Aubrac” cows on the trail, these pretty beige cows with almond-shaped eyes, which seem to be highlighted with a stroke of eyeliner…

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As the day progresses, the landscape becomes increasingly wild and the hamlets fewer and fewer. It’s no surprise, then, to arrive at the aptly named Auberge du Sauvage, a famous stopping point for pilgrims, located in the middle of nowhere.

Having decided to continue a little further to shorten the next day’s journey, I enjoy a lovely walk through the forest to Occitanie, as we leave Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes and enter Lozère. A land full of promise!

LE PUY TO CONQUES – DAY 4 : Lajo – Peyre-en-Aubrac

This long stage is the first in Lozère! In the morning, I recommend stopping at Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole. Along the way, you will pass the pretty village church and the Château de Saint Alban. Now a psychiatric hospital, it was once the starting point for hunts organized to find the Beast of Gévaudan, which terrorized the entire Margeride region in the 18th century…

And before leaving the village, don’t forget to check out the Scénovision show!

Through the story of a local postman, the show reveals the secrets of the region and explores its history and legends. The beautiful scenography will take you from the famous Beast of Gévaudan to Art Brut, which contributed to the fame of the Saint Alban hospital, via the local rural heritage…

A very enjoyable visit, interesting and a touch poetic, which will appeal to young and old alike!

Practical information: Scénovision in Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole – admission: €6 – check the website for opening times – the 10 a.m., 10:30 a.m., and 11:15 a.m. sessions are the only ones that allow you to continue your journey to Peyre-en-Aubrac at the end of the day. Duration: 45 minutes.

The second part of the stage, long and winding, crosses valleys dotted with pine forests, granite boulders, rivers, and broom. Little by little, you’ll find yourself immersed in the Aubrac!

LE PUY TO CONQUES – DAY 5 : Peyre-en-Aubrac – Nasbinals

For this fifth day between Le Puy and Conques, prepare to be amazed! This is by far the most beautiful stage of the Camino de Santiago: a stage that takes you out of your comfort zone, filled with landscapes you would never imagine seeing in France. Today, you will cross the Aubrac: a real visual and sensory treat!

Throughout the day, you will cross yellow steppes dotted with gentians and rocks… Wide open spaces stretching as far as the eye can see, interrupted only by magnificent dry stone walls or punctuated by large boulders that seem to have arrived there by pure chance…

Gold is the color of the day: golden grasses, golden gentians in full bloom at this time of year… While this postcard view of Aubrac is in fact a succession of scenes with subtle changes as the miles go by, the most stunning visual impact comes at Roc des Loups.

The highest point of this stage, it offers a superb view of the Aubrac plateau and the Oculus, a huge interpretive ring set in the middle of the steppes.

Beyond the golden expanses battered by the winds, you can guess at the superb places to explore, unfortunately off the beaten track. Burons and lakes make you want to come back to Aubrac to discover them for yourself…

Then, after crossing a pretty river, it’s already time to cover the last few kilometers to tonight’s stopover town: Nasbinals. In the village, don’t hesitate to visit the Grange au Thé to taste Aubrac tea! The region is definitely full of surprises!

LE PUY TO CONQUES – DAY 6 : Nasbinals – Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac

On this sixth day between Le Puy and Conques, another beautiful stage in the Aubrac region awaits! However, the landscapes are very different today! The path winds its way through summer pastures and flirts with the border between Lozère, Aveyron, and Cantal.

The feeling of being alone in the world (with the cows!) is exotic and reminded me of the hikes around Puy Mary that I was lucky enough to do a few years ago in Cantal…

The stop in Aubrac (to admire its English tower and hospital-monastery) marks the end of Aubrac and the beginning of Aveyron. From here, the descent takes you through forests and boraldes (streams flowing into the Lot) to Saint Chély.

This stage is shorter, and the arrival point allows you to enjoy a peaceful afternoon by the river, at the foot of the Pont des Pèlerins. Dating back to the 14th century, for over 800 years it has seen pilgrims from all walks of life pass by, using it to continue their journey to Compostela…

LE PUY TO CONQUES – DAY 7 : Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac – Espalion

From St Chély, a long descent through the forest awaits you! Well sheltered, it is quite pleasant, and the reward at the bottom is considerable: this is where the Lot Valley begins, with the pretty village of Saint Côme d’Olt as its first landmark.

Ranked among the most beautiful villages in France, it centers around a central square, with its church and its striking twisted bell tower. All around are beautiful medieval streets and surprising hipped roofs typical of the Lot Valley. Saint Côme still has some very beautiful medieval remains, both on its facades and on the entrance gates to the village…

Then, as you cross the Lot, don’t hesitate to stop by the river to admire the view of the village! It’s the perfect place to take a refreshing break with a view!

The last few kilometers of the stage are on the heights of the Lot Valley, heading towards Espalion. Along the way, you can climb up to the Virgin of Vermus, which offers a beautiful view of Espalion, where you will be spending the night!

One last descent and you’ll arrive in Espalion, the red town. At the entrance to the town, don’t miss the superb Romanesque church of Perse, a jewel both outside with its elegant red stone and inside. It houses some sublime frescoes, perfectly preserved!

In the evening, don’t hesitate to take a stroll through the charming town of Espalion, adorned with pink sandstone.

The banks of the Lot River are very beautiful, with the old bridge listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the superb Old Palace, where you can also stay! Espalion is also home to some lovely unusual museums, such as the diving suit museum and the museum of customs and traditions, housed in a former prison!

LE PUY TO CONQUES – DAY 8 : Espalion – Golinhac

Although today’s stage promises to be full of asphalt and steep climbs, it fortunately also has some lovely surprises in store. The morning is punctuated by more beautiful stops in red stone, with the church of Saint-Pierre-de-Bessuéjouls and the hamlet of Verrières… But the most beautiful surprise awaits you when you arrive in the village of Estaing. The view is like a picture postcard, unexpected at the bend in the road!

Estaing is listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France, and its medieval streets are indeed impressive! Beautiful doors and buildings adorn its streets: a Gothic bridge, a collegiate church, a church… and of course its castle, bought by former president Giscard d’Estaing!

The second part between Estaing and Golinhac is steep and much less interesting… Fortunately, the peaceful hamlet of Golinhac will welcome you for the night. One last surprise awaits you there: a refuge artwork, La Chambre d’Or (The Golden Room) by Abraham Poincheval, located below the church. There are several of these along the Way of St. James.

LE PUY TO CONQUES – DAY 9 : Golinhac – Conques

It’s already time for the “last times” on the trail, as we’re scheduled to arrive in Conques at the end of the day! We set off early to escape the heat and enjoy the soft colors of the rising sun over the Aveyron countryside, passing through a few villages along the way (Espeyrac and Sénergues with its beautiful castle), and then it’s already time to descend on Conques.

Until the very end, there is no indication of a village nestled in the hollow of a valley. And then suddenly, you turn into a street and find yourself in the center of the village, with a view of the immense abbey church. This village, tinged with pink and blue and superbly preserved, is an instant favorite.

It’s so nice to stroll through its medieval streets, following in the footsteps of the millions of pilgrims who have passed through here for 1,000 years, and pop into the many artisan workshops in Conques…

I will dedicate my next article entirely to Conques. I strongly recommend spending the night in Conques to enjoy the evening and morning in the village. The evening is an opportunity to end the Le Puy–Conques route in style, with many activities: mass for pilgrims, illumination of the tympanum, concert in the abbey church, musical tour of the galleries…

The next morning, take advantage of the calm in the streets of Conques to soak up the soul of the village before leaving… A little time to unwind before returning to “normal life” is highly recommended!

Read also : Visit Conques : the ultimate guide

LE PUY TO CONQUES CAMINO : MY FEEDBACK

There is a truly special atmosphere on the Camino de Santiago from Le Puy to Conques. No one is there by chance: every pilgrim, believer or not, seasoned or novice, is there to discover. Sometimes to discover themselves, sometimes to rediscover themselves, to discover a different way of traveling, to discover new places and new people.

Encounters come and go, as each person covers the stages and kilometers each day. I really appreciated the diversity of the people I met: their geographical origins, personalities, reasons for walking…

Alone, in pairs, or in groups, everyone comes with their own story, their own expectations, their own itinerary of 3, 5, 10 days, sometimes 2 to 3 months for those who want to reach Compostela in Spain.

The beauty of this route also lies in the fact that it is the very beginning of the journey for everyone: the Le Puy route starts here. So we discover together the first few days, the first landscapes we pass through, the first difficulties that may arise, the pace of walking…

Compostela is truly a pilgrimage unlike any other. The spirit of mutual aid is very much alive here. The kindness and openness of the people you meet along the way are uplifting. It is rare to find a hike where you ask those you meet where they come from and where they are going, where you enjoy sharing a moment or a stretch of the trail with others.

Compostela is a little bubble cut off from the world, because even though the Le Puy to Conques section is the most popular, it passes through very sparsely populated areas where nature reigns supreme… In some hamlets that see few people passing through apart from pilgrims, some residents even leave little gifts for pilgrims: supplies or shelter along the way.

Finally, I really appreciated the diversity of the landscapes and the few beautiful stages, which made up for the long stretches of asphalt that, I must admit, I wasn’t expecting at all!

The Le Puy to Conques route was a real adventure for me, one that I had been looking forward to for several years, and it lived up to all my expectations!

I hope this article will help you prepare for your own journey, if you feel like embarking on this project for a few days or a few weeks… I wish you a wonderful journey when you set off on your own adventure!