Are you coming to visit Troyes and wondering what are the best things to do in Troyes? So this guide is for you!
This week, I’m taking you on a tour of Troyes, the historic capital of Champagne. I’ve wanted to visit this city for a while, as I was particularly drawn to its beautiful half-timbered houses. As someone born in Alsace, I have a real passion for half-timbered buildings like in Colmar and Strasbourg! And I have to say that Troyes really spoiled me! But I was also charmed by many surprises that I didn’t expect to find in Troyes.
Its artisanal past, its historic center shaped like a champagne cork where it’s nice to stroll, its surprising specialties… Visiting Troyes was a real discovery! So if you’re wondering how to visit Troyes, let me be your guide through the city!
PRACTICAL TIPS TO VISIT TROYES
How to get there?
By car, Troyes is 2 hours from Paris and 1 hour 20 minutes from Reims. Rent a car here if you need to.
Compare car rentals to find the best price!
If you’re coming from Paris, it’s easier to take the train, which only takes 1 hour 25 minutes.
Where to stay to visit Troyes?
3 recommended accommodation to visit Troyes
APPART LE CHARMANT PAILLOT
- In the historic center
- Calm & comfortable
- From €105
MAISON COLETTE
- Charming B&B
- Rated 9,9 out of 10
- From €100
SPA & SAUNA LUXUEUX
- In the historic center
- Magnificent view
- From €190
Organize your time to visit Troyes
The city center is not very large and can be visited in a good half day. A day allows you to stroll through the old town and discover the surrounding area (see the “explore the surrounding area” section).
What to bring back from Troyes?
The pretty market halls of Troyes welcome you to discover local specialties! On the menu: andouillette de Troyes, which can be eaten grilled or in a casserole, and the delicious Chaource (a cheese named after a village near Troyes).
Another specialty worth mentioning is choucroute de Brienne-le-Château, near Troyes! Driven out by the German annexation in 1871, Alsatian sauerkraut makers fled their region and began growing cabbage in the plains of this village in the Aube department. Then the first sauerkraut restaurant opened right next door, and today it is the largest in France.
For those who prefer sweet treats, especially chocolate, the Maison Pascal Caffet (Meilleur Ouvrier de France chocolatier) will tempt you with its delicious creations…
When it comes to drinks, don’t forget that Aube is the second largest producer of Champagne after the Marne.
The region also has two other specialties: cidre du pays d’Othe (cider from the Othe region) and Prunelle de Troyes, made from sloe stones. This tasty and pleasant liqueur can be found at Cellier Saint Pierre, on the cathedral square. Cellier is also a wine merchant and offers all the region’s specialties.
VISIT TROYES: ITS HISTORICAL ALLEYS
Troyes is a fascinating city to explore, and its streets are steeped in history. To discover them better, I recommend renting an audio guide from the tourist office. It allows you to wander freely at your own pace while enjoying the explanations you would get on a guided tour. In total, the audio guide takes you to more than 30 sites in the center of Troyes.
Practical information for visiting Troyes – Audio guides: these are available from the Tourist Office (rue Aristide Briand, next to the town hall) for €7. More than 30 places and topics are covered.
Visit Troyes and its colorful half-timbered houses
The pedestrian streets of Troyes’ historic center are absolutely charming, with their famous half-timbered houses! Troyes has one of the largest collections of half-timbered houses in Europe, most of which date back to the Renaissance. I didn’t expect there to be so many! Painted yellow and red, they are often crooked, bearing witness to the many centuries they have lived through.
But as you stroll around, you’ll see that their unusual charm is also due to a few regional peculiarities… Their exposed beams often reveal funny sculptures or signs of the owners’ trades. And if you look up at their roofs, you’ll discover beautiful corbels that almost make them look like little chalets! These were actually used to protect the cob from the elements.
Some houses are even covered with wooden tiles on their facades, reminiscent of the buildings in Honfleur in Normandy.
Take the opportunity to stroll around the Place du Marché au Pain (bread market square), where you’ll be amazed by what you see! This is also where you’ll find the astonishing Ruelle des Chats (Cat Alley), famous for its beam carved with a cat’s head. To get there, you’ll have to pass under a maze of beams that form a tiny alleyway. Don’t miss the Cour du Mortier d’Or (Golden Mortar Courtyard) right next door, a superb enclosed courtyard adorned with the most beautiful half-timbering!
A few streets not to be missed: Rue Champeaux, Rue Molé, Ruelle des Chats and Rue François Gentil.
Visit Troyes and its commercial heart
Let’s continue our stroll through the Saint-Jean district. In the Middle Ages, this was the liveliest part of Troyes, as it was the center of the city’s commercial activity. From the 12th century onwards, merchants came from all over Europe to attend the Champagne fairs. As in Provins, these fairs ensured the growth of Troyes, which became a real hub.
You can imagine the hustle and bustle of these narrow streets, with carts unloading their supplies in the middle of the half-timbered squares. As you stroll along, you’ll discover a few clues to what life was like in those days.
In the rue de la Montée au Change, for example, money changers exchanged local currency for the currency of the Counts of Champagne, which was imposed during the fairs. It was the ancestor of the euro! There is also the bread market square, which has had a succession of names throughout history, depending on what was sold there…
It was also in the Saint Jean district that one of Troyes’ specialities developed: hosiery. Today, Troyes is more famous for its factory outlets, but knitting contributed to the city’s prosperity from the Middle Ages onwards. You can find out more at the Vauluisant Museum (see below).
The other commercial heart of the city is undoubtedly the Halles district of Troyes, a must for any food lover. Here you will find many specialties, from andouillette sausage to Chaource cheese.
While I really liked the historic center and its remarkable collection of half-timbered houses, I must admit that I was also charmed by the mix of architectural styles. The alternation of old half-timbered houses, more Haussmann-style buildings and brick and chalk houses—typical of the Champagne style—is particularly successful!
Sainte Madeleine Church
A few steps from the alleyway of cats is the most beautiful church in Troyes (and there are many!): the Church of Sainte Madeleine. It is also one of the oldest in Troyes, dating back in part to the 12th century.
And although the church is tucked away in an alleyway that barely allows you to admire its square tower, I was really surprised by the interior. A magnificent rood screen, one of only a few remaining in France, separates the nave from the choir. From a distance, it almost looks like lace, but it’s actually made of stone!
But the rood screen isn’t the only gem in the church… Its stained glass windows are also famous for their color, precision, and wonderful decoration. And that’s no accident! Did you know that Troyes is the capital of stained glass?
VISIT TROYES: THE “CITÉ” AND THE CATHEDRAL
The “cité” district, surrounded by water
While the body of the Champagne cork is a concentration of pretty historic streets, the head of the cork is not to be outdone! This district, known as the “city,” is the birthplace of the city of Troyes! It’s a bit like the beautiful Île de la Cité in Paris, the historic birthplace of our capital…
Historically surrounded by the Seine, the city was completely encircled by water thanks to the basins dug by Napoleon to facilitate navigation to Paris!
Power has always been concentrated in these few streets, well protected by high ramparts since the 3rd century. The Counts of Champagne settled here, as did the religious authorities! But all that remains of the ramparts today is the round turret of the Hôtel du Petit Louvre, rebuilt on the remains of the old walls.
Visit Troyes cathedral
It is in this pretty neighborhood that you can admire the superb Saint-Pierre Saint-Paul Cathedral, a true Gothic masterpiece. Its huge, immaculate white façade leaves no one indifferent, with its unique tower dominating the city. Inside, too, the cathedral surprises with its impressive dimensions. And its 1,500 m² of stained glass windows are matched in France only by the legendary cathedral of Chartres…
Several of Troyes’ major museums are concentrated around the cathedral, nestled in superb historic buildings. The Musée Saint Loup is located just opposite the cathedral, as is the Musée d’Art Moderne, housed in the former bishop’s palace. The Hôtel Dieu le Comte houses the stained glass museum and the apothecary’s shop.
Must-see attractions in the “cité” district
And since there’s more to see than just museums, you can also discover the Cellier Saint Pierre and its Prunelle de Troyes on the cathedral square. Made exclusively here since 1840, this liqueur is produced from sloe stones and is drunk as a digestif or in cocktails. It even won a gold medal at the 1900 World’s Fair in Paris!
A little further down Rue de la Cité, don’t hesitate to take a look at the Saint Nizier Church and the Square des Trois Godets! With its glazed tiles, the church took me straight back to Burgundy, and more specifically to the Hospices de Beaune! As for the Square des Trois Godets, it offers a lovely view of the cathedral’s chevet, while being quiet and surrounded by pretty, colorful houses.
The last street not to be missed is the elegant Rue Linard-Gonthier, which runs alongside the Hôtel du Petit Louvre.
VISIT TROYES AND ITS UNUSUAL MUSEUMS
The Hôtel de Vauluisant
The Hôtel de Vauluisant is an exception in Troyes. Its Renaissance stone façade stands out among the city’s many wooden and cob houses! It also houses two very interesting museums.
On the top floor, the Musée d’Art Champenois is housed in the magnificent rooms of this historic hotel. The 16th-century paintings, sculptures, and stained-glass windows are surrounded by imposing fireplaces worthy of the Loire Valley castles! It’s a beautiful setting in which to discover the works of the 16th century, which was the golden age of art in Troyes.
Next, head down one floor to discover the Musée de la Bonneterie. A remnant of the textile industry that flourished in Troyes for several centuries, the museum displays beautiful creations from Troyes workshops and old knitting machines. It also provides a better understanding of the history and evolution of the city.
Practical information for visiting Troyes – Museum – Hôtel de Vauluisant: open every day from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and 2:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. in winter – free during winter, otherwise €5 (free for visitors under 25)
The Museum of Tools and Working Methods
Behind this unusual name lies my favorite museum in Troyes. Housed in the magnificent Hôtel de Mauroy, it is one of the largest tool museums in the world with 12,000 items. It is owned by the Compagnons du Devoir.
Through the museum’s many exhibits, classified by trade, you can discover hundreds of trowels, hammers, clogs, and horseshoes. While the prospect of an exhibition of tools may seem surprising, you’ll quickly get caught up in the fun. You’ll realize that each tool has its own story and was shaped by its owner in their own image.
From chair makers to clockmakers, from saddlers (for horse accessories) to butchers, you may discover new trades, just like I did. I really loved this museum, which is a magnificent tribute to manual trades and craftsmen.
It is therefore impossible to visit Troyes without stopping at this fabulous museum…
Practical information for visiting Troyes – Musée de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière: open every day from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. – €8 (free for students and children under 18)
The Cité du vitrail and the Apothicairerie
The two museums in the Hôtel Dieu le Comte were unfortunately closed at that time, so I wasn’t able to visit them. But they came highly recommended, so don’t hesitate to check them out now they are open !
More info on the l’Apothicairerie and on the Cité du vitrail.
WHAT TO DO AROUND TROYES ?
Factory outlets (10 minutes from Troyes): Troyes is also known for its factory outlets offering many brands at greatly reduced prices. They are located just a few kilometers from the city center.
The Champagne vineyards (15 minutes from Troyes): the first wine-growing village is 10 km from Troyes! You can drive along the Champagne route, particularly the “Côte des Bar,” from Bar-sur-Aube to Bar-sur-Seine.
If you are interested in Champagne, also read Best Places to Visit Reims Region
The Lakes of the Orient Forest (30 minutes from Troyes): the Orient Forest Regional Nature Park is home to three large lakes and numerous ponds, which are popular with locals. It’s a little haven of peace on the outskirts of Troyes!
If you’re still wondering what to do in Troyes, visit the Tourist Office website for more ideas!
Coming soon on La Marinière en Voyage…
To make sure you don’t miss a thing, subscribe to the newsletter!
If you also use Pinterest, follow me on this network: La Marinière en Voyage – and don’t forget to pin this article so you can find it easily!